Adults generally try to avoid screaming like tantruming toddlers. But my drama therapist insisted, so I took a deep breath and unleashed my best “warrior voice.” It rebounded off the yoga room’s walls, loud enough to rattle teeth in Athens, Greece, 135 miles northeast. I’d forgotten my body held this much power, but Euphoria Retreat’s Holistic Leadership program knew better.
To be candid: the spa sessions drew me to this three-day self-improvement odyssey… not to mention monastic luxury in the Peloponnesian Taÿgetus range. But I found much more than I expected.
Perhaps I unconsciously understood that I needed help wading out of my mental fog. During the peak-pandemic years, I felt increasingly isolated despite being surrounded by my young family. This sparked heightened anxiety, causing me to withdraw further from friends and the person I once was.
According to the World Health Organization (WHO), the global prevalence of anxiety increased by 25% in the first year of the pandemic. Unsurprisingly, as I slowed down, grief over lost relationships welled up: something I had to face head-on at Euphoria Retreat.
After a 20-hour transit from my Pacific Northwest home, I arrived at this luxurious retreat, nestled in Mystras, a Byzantine city and UNESCO World Heritage site. The four-story spa’s grounds tuck up against hills forested with scrub pine and olive trees.
As I soon discovered, it’s also a place where transformation happens.
The Greek spa sits directly above the village of Mystras, a place that has leaped from the pages of a storybook. Outside the front gate, narrow, winding lanes flanked by quaint stone houses with red-tiled roofs and fragrant bougainvillea await.
Settling into my room’s private terrace overlooking the legendary Spartan landscape, I felt peace wash over me. The soothing melodies of nature and fragrances of orange and thyme worked their magic, slowly easing tension.
As a travel writer, I’ve seen many spas, but something uniquely magical here is embedded in this resort’svery essence. It may be the atmosphere that is heavy with Spartan energy. Women enjoyed unprecedented rights and autonomy compared to their counterparts in other Greek city-states during the Classical Period (5th-4th centuries BCE). They could inherit property, own land, conduct business transactions, and receive a better education than most women in ancient Greece. Unlike in Athens, where women were regarded as second-class citizens, Spartan women were reputed to hold significant influence over their men.
Ancient Greek legends suggest the forest surrounding Euphoria Retreat possesses healing powers, with Spartan souls enveloping those within it like a protective cocoon. I sighed a deep breath of relief, my heart opening to the experience.
With a day to explore before the evening’s orientation, I beeline for the spa. A foot bath and four-story spiral staircase lead into a space dominated by sun shafting through skylights.
The highlight is a silver sphere within the indoor pool, inviting guests to step inside, starting waist-deep at the outer rim and descending to a 4-meter depth at the center. Despite initial anxiety, I revel in the womb-like sensation, accompanied by soothing marine sounds that transport me to a sensory world. Here, you feel connected to your primal self, and your body shifts from thinking to feeling while natural light guides you from above.
A sliding door under an archway in the water leads to an intimate outdoor pool, where lounge chairs beckon me to relax in the warm June sun–above-average temperatures hitting 43 degrees Celsius. I spend hours alternating between these two pools, the calming metal sphere drawing me back again and again. Eventually, I make my way to the tepidarium, where I spend most of my downtime alternating between the heated-tile loungers, the Finnish sauna and the rejuvenating cold-plunge pool.
I fell asleep during a 20-minute session in the salt grotto, which, as I later learned, is quite common. Guests sit in a cozy chair and breathe in salt particles to detoxify and clear their lungs. Salt blocks line one of the room’s walls, backlit in warm shades of amber.
Unlike other wellness retreats that may only offer spa treatments and activities, Euphoria Retreat comprehensively weaves in emotional healing, mental clarity, and spiritual growth. This holistic approach sets it apart from other retreats I’ve experienced.
After my day of relaxation, I floated up the stairs to meet my fellow attendees, including owner Marina Efraimoglou and spiritual instructor Mary Vandouru. The rest of our intimate group included four spa and yoga professionals.
Over three days, I learned about the three levels of leadership (self/small groups/leader at large), explored the power of yin energy and the guiding principles of the five elements based on Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) theories (water, earth, fire, wood, and metal).
I also did outdoor yoga, meditation, drama therapy, and even sound-healing sessions. Euphoria Chakra sound healing harmonizes our heart’s sound through specific movements that create space within our bodies, clearing blocked energy. Tibetan Singing Bowls are employed to open this inner space and energizeeach of our chakras, promoting a balanced energy flow.
Even though the five elements theory is based on TCM, the spa’s ethos is very much Greek. The ancient Greek concept of the four basic elements—earth, water, air, and fire—originated in pre-Socratic times and continued to shape European thought and culture throughout the Middle Ages and into the Early Modern period.
Ancient Greek philosophers saw life as joyful, sensual, and brimming with exciting growth potential. The Greek word ‘Euphoria’ embodies the concept of living and feeling ‘well.’
Finding answers from her own Greek heritage, Efraimoglou met Vandouru in 2007 and the pair started teaching together in 2009. They slowly added additional Greek philosophy and reminded us of our responsibility to find our own messages in the world. The retreat constantly had me questioning, “Am I the leader in my life?”
At first, I felt self-conscious and hesitant, but the “Finding My Voice” session was a turning point. As I attempted my first warrior cry, I physically felt myself preventing all the emotions I had bottled up over the last few years from escaping. Immediate frustration with myself punctuated my efforts as I repeatedly blocked myself from completing the exercise. My masterful instructor stood with me, gently supporting and encouraging me to keep pushing through it. As I let go and fully embraced the process, I felt liberated energy coursing through my body, and I finally screamed with conviction and strength. Confidence that had eluded me for years was now simmering, ready to overflow.
“We encourage guests to find deep self-awareness and awakening through these programs and retreats and to dive deep into what is happening in one’s life; what blocks you,” Efraimoglou shared. “We want guests to discover their true life purpose. Part of this is discovering your personality through the five elements and learning what does and does not work for you. This lets you move forward with your life and achieve a better understanding of yourself.”
Each session allowed me to connect with myself on a deeper level, my confidence building by the day.Beyond the activities, the healthy, nourishing meals also significantly influenced my transformation, along withthe opportunity to disconnect from technology and social media.
The tableau vivant, or “living picture” exercise, proved to be one of the most emotionally impactful tools I encountered during the leadership retreat. Efraimoglou captured these motionless moments on camera, and the group later revisited them during one of the retreat’s most raw and honest discussions. The power of the exercise lies in its simplicity, and the feedback I received revealed that my inner leader wasn’t buried like I believed, after all. In my classmates’ eyes, it was on full display that day.
Mentally and emotionally drained from the exercises, a spa treatment was a welcome retreat at the end of each day. The first afternoon,I experienced the Five Element Balancing Treatment, designed to alleviate tension and stress. The Sanctuary for the Busy Minds treatment was a healing session promoting and supporting inner balance and harmony. I experienced such exquisite calm during this last therapeutic hour that I wished I could have it done daily!
“The sequence of treatments is also important to maximize results and maintain a comfortable and nurturing pace and experience as the program unfolds,” Efraimoglou continued. “In all of our programs, we include at least one daily hands-on treatment, which we have found is important for the guests to feel nurtured and taken care of and not overwhelmed by information and consultations.”
Through exercises and group discussions, I tapped into my emotions and expressed myself freely without fear or judgment. An intrinsic part of the experience was Efraimoglou’s energy and gentle but firm prodding and Vandouru’s soothing, supportive voice. They are a fantastic duo—at first glance, seemingly polaropposites, but both lead and guide us toward personal growth.
Connecting with a fellow attendee at the community table over dinner, I realized our journeys weren’t that different. We were both grappling with the realities of dementia affecting loved ones. I shared my father’s journey with the debilitating disease, having progressed to the point he is no longer able to communicate–the grief over losing a father and mentor (a journalist himself), a constant shadow hovering around me.
The dining atmosphere–specifically the community tables– offers opportunities for solo travelers and retreat-goers to converge naturally without any awkward prefacing. At first, solo travelers ate alone, but as the days progressed, we slowly formed groups during meal times, acting like we had known each other for years. The sense of community and camaraderie–stemming from morning group hikes, shared meals, and the occasional glass of wine– was palpable and entirely unexpected.
But not to Efaimoglou, who explained: “The fact that we work on a group level, as we have seen many times, strong connections are made and friendship may evolve.” She believes it’s fitting for solo travelers seeking meaningful connections or those navigating life transitions and challenges.
“It is ideal for people who need support and guidance as they look to find meaning and purpose in their lives, people who have the courage to look deep inside themselves and progress to the next level of their personal development,” continues Efraimoglou.
It’s also for those who wish to be prepared for humanity’s evolution and contribute to it.
Not entirely sure of what I would face at this retreat in the Peloponnese region of Greece, I impulsively packed hiking gear—and thank goodness! It let me reflect on my interior journey as I clambered up almost-sheer hillsides of crystalline limestone, eroded smooth in spots and seemingly still haunted by goat-legged satyrs.
The nearby former Byzantine capital and fortified city of Mystras offers a glimpse into Greece’s medieval past. Lush pine and cypress trees mixed with vibrant foliage contrast against ancient stone structures. Visitors beginning at the lower gate will experience a heart-pumping climb of over 300 meters (984 feet) to reach the summit. While many believe that starting from the top gate and descending is more accessible, the centuries-old cobblestones, worn smooth by countless footsteps, can make the descent quite treacherous.
In 1989, the ruins—including the fortress, palace, churches, and monasteries—were designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Today, the only residents are a group of nuns who live in the Pantanassa Monastery. Many of the most significant churches still stand, including St. Demetrios, the Hagia Sophia, St. George, and the Monastery of Peribleptos.
The Palace of the Despots stands majestically in the Upper Town of Mystra, perched on a flat expanse that offers stunning views of the Evrotas valley below.
On my final evening, we gathered for one last meal, sitting outside under the stars, reflecting on what we had learned at Euphoria Retreat.
Efraimoglou shared her story of Euphoria Retreat’s origins after receiving a cancer diagnosis at age 29. She was CEO of a large Greek bank and started doing yoga and meditation. At 40, she sold her bank and began traveling to source knowledge. She studied with healers Deepak Chopra, Barbara Brennan, and Caroline Myss. Through Donna Eden, who taught the concept based on Traditional Chinese Medicine, she stumbled on the five elements theory and fell in love.
After securing land for the property, it took eight years to get the permits. Efraimoglou’s four siblings have helped as the architect, marketing maven, civil engineer, and designer of the boutique’s clothes and tiles.
Saying goodbye with renewed confidence, I relaxed on the drive back to Athens. In today’s fast-paced world, we often shy away from speaking our minds or showing vulnerability. But in moments like these, when we allow ourselves to be vulnerable and authentic, we can tap into a deeper level of connection with ourselves and those around us.
Sometimes, it’s as simple as channeling your inner Spartan in a yoga room in Greece.
